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Runaway
Bay
Once
a mere satellite of Ocho Rios, Runaway Bay,
16km (10 miles) west of Ocho Rios, has become
a destination in its own right, with white-sand
beaches that are much less crowded than those
in Ocho Rios.
Since
you're so far removed from the action such as
it is in Ocho Rios, you stay at Runaway Bay
mainly if you're interested in hanging out at
a particular resort. It is especially recommended
for those who want to escape from the hordes
descending on Ocho Rios, where cruise-ship crowds
and aggressive vendors can intrude on your solitude.
This
part of Jamaica's north coast has several distinctions:
It was the first part of the island seen by
Columbus, the site of the first Spanish settlement
on the island, and the point of departure of
the last Spaniards leaving Jamaica following
their defeat by the British.
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| General
History: Runaway Bay is certainly
one of the most scenic areas in Jamaica,
which is probably why it was the first place
in Jamaica to be developed almost completely
as a resort area. |
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Since
the early 1960s, when the old Cardiff Hall Estate
was converted to a combination of luxury hotels,
golf courses and private villas, the town has
developed its own character and persona as an
elegant yet lively getaway for those who truly
need to relax, enjoy a bit of luxury and rejuvenate
themselves completely.
Indeed,
much of the beauty of Runaway Bay lies in the
fact that while the town itself is not a vibrant
bustling centre, it is conveniently located
within easy reach of Ocho Rios in the east,
Montego Bay in the west, and with Brown's Town
inland to the south. Also as well as having
some of the most spectacular beaches in the
Caribbean, Runaway Bay is endowed with captivating
natural features such as the Pear Tree River
and the Green Grotto Caves.
Over
the years, there has been much debate about
the name of this small coastal town. Some believe
it got the name as the fleeing point of the
last batch of Spanish soldiers retreating from
English troops under the directive of Governor
Ysassi in the 1600s. Others argue that it once
was the point of departure of African slaves
from inland sugar plantations who ran away to
Cuba. Whichever story is true, according to
one resident, "nobody nah try (to) run
‘way” from Runaway Bay today; in
fact, in the hills outside the resort town,
many foreigners have run away from their former
selves and made Jamaica home!
Famous For: Do stop by the
Green Grotto Caves, the largest and most accessible
caves on the island. The two caves open to the
public are the Runaway Cave and the Green Grotto
Cave, both estimated to be approximately half-million
years old. Along with stalagmites and stalactites,
there is a small and fascinating underground
lake in the innermost cavern. The caves belong
to a series of interconnected passageways and
chambers that spread far beneath the Dry Harbour
Mountains to the south. It is said that slaves
used the caves as an escape route, but it is
unclear whether these slaves were running to
the coast in order to leave the country, or
whether they were running to the mountainous
interior to join bands of maroons in the mountains.
Tours of the caves in which your guide identifies
interesting and sometimes amusing rock formations,
last about 45 minutes and are provided at a
small cost.
In
addition to the caves, some of the best beaches
in the Caribbean can be found in Runaway Bay,
protected by a large tropical coral reef. Accordingly,
the resort area is one of the most ideal for
water sports, scuba-diving, all outdoor sports
and of course, sunbathing.
Must See: Located on a hill
overlooking the bay is the Runaway Bay HEART
Hotel and Training Institute. HEART, the Human
Employment and Resource Training Trust is a
government-run programme that aims to develop
practical and vocational skills among young
Jamaicans. The Runaway Bay HEART Hotel employs
predominantly hospitality industry trainees,
and needless to say, since it began operating
has maintained a reputation for excellence in
service, since trainees are graded on guest
satisfaction. At the very least, a visit to
the Cardiff Hall Restaurant (also on the hotel
property and run by trainees) is a worthwhile
experience, as the culinary institute usually
manages to pull a "clean sweep" of
medal positions in the annual JCDC Culinary
Arts Competition. Upon leaving the institute,
apart from being pleasantly satisfied, guests
often feel the warmth and well being of knowing
that their patronage has helped a young Jamaican
to master essential skills for entry into the
working world.
Columbus
Park Museum
on Queens Highway, Discovery Bay (tel. 876/973-2135),
is a large, open area between the main coast
road and the sea at Discovery Bay. Just pull
off the road and walk among the fantastic collection
of exhibits; admission is free. There's everything
from a canoe made from a solid piece of cottonwood
(the way Arawaks did it more than 5 centuries
ago) to a stone cross that was originally placed
on the Barrett Estate (14km/8 3/4 miles east
of Montego Bay) by Edward Barrett, brother of
poet Elizabeth Barrett Browning. You'll see
a tally, used to count bananas carried on men's
heads from plantation to ship, as well as a
planter's strongbox with a weighted lead base
to prevent its theft. Other items are 18th-century
cannons, a Spanish water cooler and calcifier,
a fish pot made from bamboo, a corn husker,
and a water wheel. Pimento trees, from which
allspice is produced, dominate the park, which
is open daily from 8am to 4pm (admission is
free).
Seville
Great House
Heritage Park
(tel. 876/972-2191).
Built
in 1745 by the British, it contains a collection
of artifacts once used by everybody from the
Amerindians to African slaves. In all, you're
treated to an exhibit of 5 centuries' worth
of Jamaican history. Modest for a great house,
it has wattle-and-daub construction. A small
theater presents a 15-minute historical film
about the house. It's open daily from 9am to
5pm; admission is $4.
Bob
Marley
Reggae
fans from all over the world visit the little
hamlet of Nine Mile to pay their respects at
the Bob Marley Centre & Mausoleum (tel.
876/995-1763), which is open daily from 9:30am
to 6:30pm, charging an admission of $12.
The
village where Marley grew up and where he was
buried has the unusual name of Nine Mile. It's
a group of ramshackle farms, stray goats, and
chickens.
You
can go inside Marley's two-room shanty, filled
with family memorabilia, including photographs.
Marley lived here from the ages of 6 to 13.
Adjoining the shack is the so-called mausoleum
in which Marley was buried. He shares the gravesite
with his half-brother, who was gunned down by
police in Miami during a drug bust.
On-site
is a vegetarian restaurant and a little shop
selling Marley tapes.
The
big event of the year here is Marley's birthday
each February 6. Reggae fans descend on Nine
Mile to listen to concerts. The performer's
son, Ziggy Marley, also a reggae star, often
appears to entertain.
To
reach the pilgrimage site, take the B3 from
Ocho Rios south to Brown's Town, a distance
of 39km (24 miles). From there continue south
to Alexandria for 10km (6 1/4 miles). Once at
Alexandria, turn east (signposted ALVA), going
for another 15km (9 1/4 miles) until you arrive
at the hamlet of Nine Mile of Marley fame
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