| Montego
Bay Walking Tours
Falmouth
Heritage Walking Tour
Introduction
Founded by the great-grandfather of the
famous British Poet, Elizabeth Barrett-Browning,
Falmouth emerged during the sugar boom
of the 18th century and became one of
the most opulent towns of its time. The
town is a living museum of 19th century
Georgian architecture, for many of its
old buildings have been preserved and
restored over the years. It is also the
ideal place for a walking tour, with its
well laid out streets, following a grid.
Start: Parish Church
Finish: Lower Harbour Street
Distance/Time: 1 ½ hours |
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The
Tour:
TRELAWNY
PARISH CHURCH OF ST PETER
A landmark from 1796, its graveyard holds tombstones
that are over 200 years old. The church’s
interior has some unusual features such as a
high pulpit and ceiling, as well as many beautiful
decorative touches, including colourful stained-glass
windows and mahogany furnishings. The tallest
building in town, the church’s bell tower
affords a beautiful bird’s eye view of
Falmouth.
After exploring the grounds and interior of
St Peter’s, exit through the main gate
onto Duke Street. Directly facing the church
is the colourful Abby Villa. Begin walking in
an easterly direction along Duke Street, passing
several buildings which whisper of the town’s
former magnificence. Turn right at King Street,
and continue until you arrive at the Baptist
Church at the intersection of King and George
Streets.
THE KNIBB MEMORIAL BAPTIST CHURCH
First built in 1844, but destroyed in 1944 and
rebuilt in 1948, this building has served as
a centre for those professing the Baptist faith
in northeastern Jamaica for almost two centuries.
During the 19th century, the Baptists were at
the forefront of the abolitionist movement in
Jamaica. They focused much of their efforts
in the parish of Trelawny, of which Falmouth
is the capital, because it had more slaves than
any other parish in the island. William Knibb,
one of Jamaica’s foremost Baptist missionaries,
organized the construction of the original church.
Look for the graves of Knibb, his wife and son
in the church grounds.
From the Baptist Church, continue east along
George Street and make a left onto Market Street.
Walk one block, returning to Duke Street, and
resume walking in an easterly direction, until
it opens into the town centre, Water Square.
WATER SQUARE
Falmouth was the first town in Jamaica to have
running water. In fact, the town boasted a plumbing
system before many of the major cities in the
world, including New York in the US, had running
water. Starting in the early 19th century, fresh
water was pumped from the nearby Martha Brae
River to a tank in the square, and then pumped
to the surrounding houses. Water was also channeled
to the docks, so that visiting ships could replenish
their fresh water supply. Although formerly
called Charles Square, its present name serves
as a reminder of this interesting fact.
On the southern side of the square is the famous
Albert and George Market.
THE ALBERT AND GEORGE MARKET
Opened in 1894, the Albert and George Market
was once the hub of activity on the North Coast.
Anything and everything was sold there, from
fresh produce to slaves. Today, it holds 20
or more wooden stalls, selling crafts and fresh
produce. There are also some small displays
of historical artifacts such as coal irons and
coffee mills. Stop in and browse through its
eclectic collection of goods.
After the market, take a southeasterly trek
along Lower Parade Street to the harbour district.
Turn left onto Tharpe Street. At the intersection
of Upper Harbour and Tharp streets, you’ll
find a large dome-shaped structure hidden within
a complex of warehouses.
THE DOME
During the 19th century, this Falmouth landmark
was part of an iron foundry, built to repair
metallic parts for sugar mills and cargo ships.
To the seaward side of the dome is the Central
Warf, where slaves were brought ashore and taken
to the market to be sold. During Falmouth’s
heyday, the foundry was very busy, because the
town was a major shipping and sugar port. At
that time, over a hundred ships and smaller
vessels regularly docked in the harbour, many
of which were usually in need of repair after
their long journey from Europe and Africa.
After viewing the dome, walk along Tharpe Street
toward the sea. At the end of the street, you’ll
find the Tharp House.
THARP HOUSE
One of three houses in Falmouth owned by John
Tharp, the house sits directly on the waterfront.
Tharp was one of the island’s richest
planters and largest slave owners. In the days
of slavery, slave ships and other merchant ships
used to dock in front of the house. Today, the
building has been restored and is used as the
Tax Collection Office. In the yard, you can
see remnants of the old Tharp Warf.
From the Tax Office walk north along Seaboard
Street. Fronting the harbour, this area was
considered prime property and many wealthy merchants
built their homes there. A couple of these buildings
are still standing today and have been restored.
At the end of the street, you’ll see:
THE COURTHOUSE
A grand, imposing edifice, the present building
is a replica of the original 1817 Georgian structure,
which was destroyed by fire in 1926. When court
is in session, you will find throngs of cars
and people in front of the building. To the
seaward side of the courthouse is a small cenotaph,
erected in honour of those Jamaican soldiers
who fought and died during World Wars I and
II.
Directly to the northwest of the courthouse,
at the intersection of Trelawny and Market Streets,
you’ll come across the recently renovated
Baptist Manse, and the Moulton Barrett House.
THE BAPTIST MANSE
Built by the Barrett family in 1798, this building
was the home of Jamaica’s most famous
non-conformist Baptist preacher and abolitionist,
William Knibb. Knibb came to Jamaica from England
in 1825. While in Jamaica, Knibb preached about
the cruelty of slavery and actively advocated
the freedom of all slaves. As a result, he was
arrested, but later released. Knibb served as
the spokesman of the Jamaica Baptist Church
and went to England to petition for the end
of slavery, which eventually occurred in 1838.
The Manse is a beautiful building with finely
crafted stonework and wooden staircase. It has
been tastefully restored and is currently used
as an exhibition hall and offices.
On the north side of the intersection is the
Moulton Barrett House:
MOULTON BARRETT TOWNHOUSE
Falmouth’s most renowned family, the Barretts,
once owned this house. Edward Barrett, great-grandfather
of English poet Elizabeth Barrett Browning,
started the development of Falmouth in 1790.
The offices of Mr Neville Hammond (Justice of
the peace and World War II veteran) are located
upstairs. Drop in and say hello! Mr Hammond
is very knowledgeable about the history of Falmouth
and may be willing to sit for a chat.
Once you’ve seen the Manse and townhouse,
turn toward the sea and walk along Market Street.
Turn left onto Lower Harbour Street. At the
first intersection you’ll see a white
building on your right. This is no. 4 Lower
Harbour Street.
4 LOWER HARBOUR STREET
This beautifully renovated building is the home
of noted archaeologist and restorer, Dr James
Parrent, who is extremely knowledgeable of the
town’s history. Dr Parrent is the head
of the Falmouth Heritage Renewal Inc., by which
several of the small cottages found throughout
the town have been restored.
Directly across from Mr. Parrent’s house
is a small green cottage, No. 3 Lower Harbour
Street.
3 LOWER HARBOUR STREET
This quaint cottage, renovated by the Falmouth
Heritage Renewal Incorporation, is a private
home. In the 19th century, many homes like this
one belonged to the free-black population. Over
time, they became very dilapidated but, thanks
to the Falmouth restoration project, have recently
regained their old charm.
Montego
Bay Heritage Walking Tour
Introduction:
Once
called el Golfo de Buen Tiempo (Fair Weather
Gulf), and La Bahia Manteca (Lard Bay), Montego
Bay’s rich history includes the stories
of Spanish conquistadors, grand sugar plantations
and infamous slave rebellions, namely the Sam
Sharpe Rebellion of 1831. Today, Montego Bay
is Jamaica’s second largest city and the
island’s most popular tourist region.
In spite of its development, the city’s
colourful past is still alive in the relics
that stand throughout the town.
Start: The Dome, at the intersection of Dome
and Creek Streets.
Finish: Sam Sharpe Square
Distance/Time: 1.5 km
The
Tour:
At
the intersection of Dome and Creek Streets,
you’ll spot an odd dome-shaped structure.
THE DOME
Built in 1837, this brick edifice guarded the
issue of the creek that supplied much of Montego
Bay’s water. The “Keeper of the
Creek,” the person responsible for managing
the city’s water supply, resided in the
dome until the river’s course shifted
in the late 19th century. With continued road
construction around the Dome, parts of it eventually
became covered.
After visiting the Dome, walk westerly along
Creek Street, until you reach the intersection
with Payne Street. Turn right and walk northward
until you arrive at:
ST JAMES PARISH CHURCH
(Entrance on Church Street). This glorious 18th
century edifice boasts numerous plaques and
monuments, commemorating the lives of several
prominent figures in the history of St James,
including members of the Barrett, Kerr and Jarrett
families. Of note are two marble monuments,
created by John Bacon, a famous 18th century
British sculptor. Typical of parish churches,
the building possesses an old pipe organ and
many beautiful stained glass windows.
Directly facing the Parish Church (on Church
Street), and located inside a Georgian mansion,
is the Town House Restaurant.
TOWN HOUSE RESTAURANT
Dating from 1765, the Town House Restaurant
maintains its old world charm in the heart of
the modern city. The two-storey, red brick building
is a fine example of 18th century Georgian architecture.
The restaurant offers inside and outside dinning,
and serves a savoury menu of international and
local dishes. For over a quarter of a century,
the Town House Restaurant has been one of Montego
Bay’s most popular dining spots for both
lunch and dinner. Its guest book reportedly
includes such famous names as Sean Connery,
Steve McQueen, Dustin Hoffman, Goldie Hawn and
Kurt Russel. The restaurant is also famous for
its collection of local art, displayed on walls
around the dining area.
Once you’ve visited the Town House Restaurant
and perhaps had a bite to eat, walk in an easterly
direction along Church Street, taking the first
left onto King Street. Continue northwards along
King Street. At the corner of King and Market
streets, you’ll find the Burchell Baptist
Church.
BURCHELL BAPTIST CHURCH
Thomas Burchell, a Baptist Missionary and abolitionist,
founded this church as a spiritual home for
the soon-to-be-freed slaves. Sam Sharpe, one
of Jamaica’s seven national heroes, was
a deacon of the church. Sharpe was instrumental
in the fight for the freedom of Jamaica’s
slaves. In 1831, he instigated a rebellion which
is accredited with advancing the end of slavery
in the Caribbean. The Sam Sharpe Rebellion (also
called the Christmas Rebellion) was one of the
largest and most violent in colonial history.
During the rebellion, the Burchell Baptist Church
was destroyed and so the present building was
erected in approximately 1835.
Leave the church and make a left turn, walking
westerly along Market Street toward the historic
Sam Sharpe Square.
SAM SHARPE SQUARE
Formerly called Charles Square, the name of
this town centre was changed in 1981 to commemorate
Sam Sharpe’s efforts in the fight for
freedom. In the aftermath of the 1831 rebellion,
it is estimated that 312 slaves, including Sam
Sharpe, were hung at the gallows in the square.
At the north end of the square you’ll
see a brick structure, called the Cage.
THE CAGE
Built in 1806, the cage was used as a temporary
prison for slaves, drunken seamen, and other
vagrants. Slaves found wandering the town after
3 p.m., were locked up in the cage. Originally,
the cage was made out of wood, but it appears
its occupants managed to damage the structure
and so it was rebuilt with bricks.
At the centre of the square you’ll find:
THE CIVIC CENTRE
Opened in 2001, the Civic Centre houses a museum
dedicated to the history of the parish of St
James. The centre was constructed on the site
of the old Montego Bay Courthouse, which was
built in the 19th century and later destroyed.
During its tenure, the old courthouse observed
many tumultuous and monuments events, including
the trial of Sam Sharpe and his followers, who
were all sentenced to death for their involvement
in the Christmas Rebellion of 1831.
THE SHARPE MONUMENT
This commemorative sculpture, created by one
of Jamaica’s leading artistes, Kay Sullivan,
depicts a preacher delivering a sermon to interested
listeners seated around.
You may end your walking tour of Montego Bay
at Sam Sharpe Square, but if you are feeling
energetic and would like to see more, walk north
from the square along Fort Street towards the
“Hip Strip” and Fort Montego, which
lies about .5 miles (800m) from Sam Sharpe Square.
The FORT (FORT MONTEGO)
This old fort once guarded Montego Bay Harbour.
Today, it contains the remains of an artillery
store and a few well-preserved cannons as well
as several souvenir and craft shops. Since this
is the last stop on your walking tour, spend
some time hunting the fort’s craft market
for a few special gifts or reminders of your
trip to Jamaica!
Links
& Sources :
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