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South
Coast Walking Tours
Black
River Heritage Tour
Introduction
A
bustling shipping port in the 19th century,
Black River was, at that time, one of Jamaica’s
grandest and most modern towns. It was the first
to receive electricity and to have motorcars,
and one of the first to have telephones. Many
of Black River’s residents were wealthy
merchants who built lavish homes in the town.
Boasting a large number of historic buildings,
High Street, Black River’s main street,
offers a trail back in time.
Start: Invercauld Guest House, High Street
Finish: Black River Safari Tour Centre
Distance/Time: 1 km/30 mins (exclusive
of optional river tour, which lasts 1 hr.)
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The
Tour
1.
INVERCAULD GREAT HOUSE
Built in 1894 by Patrick Leyden, member of a
famous British family, Invercauld (formerly
Invercall) is the typical 19th century wealthy
merchant’s home. Its graceful design is
characteristically Georgian with gabled roofs,
bay windows, valances and decorative fretwork.
Leyden reportedly imported most of the materials
used in the construction from Europe and North
America. Recently renovated, Invercauld is a
guesthouse with 52 air-conditioned rooms and
suites and a restaurant.
Leaving Invercauld, begin to walk eastward along
High Street. Pass the Black River Library and
the ruins of a building that once housed a museum,
then look for Black River’s majestic courthouse.
2. THE COURTHOUSE
This imposing building overlooking the turquoise
bay is the hub of activity in Black River, housing
both the Legal Court and the Parish Council
Offices. A magnificent Georgian structure, it
has an impressive façade with attractive
white columns. Although the exact date of its
construction is unknown, the courthouse is believed
to have been built in the early 20th century.
In the past, it has served as the Town Hall,
and as a stage for plays, concerts, political
meetings, fairs and dances. The two gigantic
ficus trees on the courthouse compound are National
Monuments.
Near the courthouse is the:
3. MAGDALA HOUSE
An excellent example of Victorian architecture
adapted to a tropical climate, Magdala House
displays a concrete foundation, wooden structure
and window coolers. Originally owned by Tom
Leyden, one of the richest men in 19th century
Jamaica, the house now belongs to the Roman
Catholic Church and serves as a home for abandoned
children.
4. RESTORED HOUSES
These include the offices of the parish council
and the reputed former home of the Griffith
family, the first family in Jamaica to own a
motorcar. Both buildings may date from the 19th
century.
With the sea to your right, continue eastwards,
until you arrive at 44 High Street, directly
opposite the remains of a beached ship.
5. WATERLOO GUEST HOUSE
Formerly owned by John Leyden, this elegant
townhouse faces Black River’s waterfront.
In 1893, Waterloo became the first building
in Jamaica to be illuminated by electricity.
It is said that Leyden, a racehorse breeder,
wired the house to an electricity plant at “York
Terrace” (now called School Street) because
he wanted to air-condition his stables. Generously,
Leyden decided to supply the whole town with
electricity, making Black River the envy of
the island. A few years later, however, the
Leyden family ran out of money and closed the
electricity plant, pitching Black River into
darkness once more. The town went without electricity
until 1936. Today, Waterloo has been restored
as a guesthouse, and is a shining example of
Black River’s storied past.
After visiting Waterloo, proceed eastward, crossing
School Street, to the Parish Church.
6. ST. ELIZABETH PARISH CHURCH
Erected in approximately 1837 (on the site of
a previous chapel dating back to the 1700s),
this graceful yellow brick building is a mixture
of classical and gothic architectural styles.
Topped with battlements and corner pinnacles,
the tower boasts quoins and other intricate
details. Inside the church are mural tablets
to Messrs. Munro and Dickenson, the benefactors
of two of Jamaica’s most recognized boarding
schools Munro College and Hampton School for
Girls.
Having explored the church and its grounds,
walk in an easterly direction along High Street,
crossing North Street, to the heart of the town.There
you will see many old buildings being used for
commercial and retail purposes. After the intersection
with Brigade Street you will see the Hendricks
and Co. Building, to your left, immediately
before an old iron bridge over Black River.
7. THE HENDRICKS & CO. BUILDING
Believed to have been built over 100 years ago,
this charming building houses the Black River
Jamaica Tourist Board office. Drop in and say
hello to the JTB representative, who will gladly
answer any questions about the area and Jamaica
in general. The building has belonged to the
Hendricks family since William Hendricks built
it in the 1900s. At that time, it housed a general
store that stocked household and hardware items.
Outside the Hendricks and Co. Building, a cannon
protrudes from the asphalt street, a relic of
the town’s heyday, when a small fort and
several guns protected the town’s riches.
Back then, old cannons were often used as “hitching
posts” for horses.
From the Hendricks & Co. Building, you may
cross the river and hire a boat to take you
on a tour. Stop for a moment on the bridge and
look out for visiting crocodiles swimming in
the murky water or sunning themselves on the
banks. The Black River area is the largest crocodile
habitat in Jamaica with over 300 rare and endangered
crocs living in the surrounding mangroves.
8. THE BLACK RIVER
Several boat companies offer tours along Jamaica’s
largest, and third longest, river – the
Black River. Famous for its rare flora and fauna,
including mangroves and American crocodiles,
the river’s name is said to derive from
the large deposits of peat under the water that
give it a dark colour.
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& Sources:
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