| Kingston
Walking Tours
Downtown
Kingston Heritage Walking Tour
Introduction
The
heartbeat of Jamaica, Kingston sits at
the crossroads of the Caribbean, North
and Latin America, and is the largest
English-speaking city south of Florida.
Founded in 1692 as a refuge for Port Royal
residents shaken by the massive earthquake,
Kingston has had a long, tumultuous past.
In 1872, the city became the capital of
Jamaica and has since then been the cultural,
economic and social centre of the island.
Walking
along Kingston’s streets, you will
see and learn much about Jamaica, its
history and culture. Nowhere in the capital
is this truer than on the busy streets
of Downtown Kingston, lined with many
of the island’s most historic buildings
and monuments. As well as having a wealth
of historic sights, Downtown Kingston
is also a bustling business district with
busy roadways and crowded sidewalks. Walking
along its streets you may witness the
vibrancy, brashness and unpredictability
of our urban lifestyle. In order to ensure
you don’t miss any of the important
sights, it’s best to have a local
guide accompany you on your walking tour.
Start: National
Heroes’ Park
Finish: National Gallery/African-Caribbean
Institute of Jamaica (ACIJ)
Distance/Time: 2-2.5 km (1.2-1.5 miles)
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The
Tour
Tips:
Although easily manageable, this is a relatively
long walking tour. Please feel free to create
a driving tour of Downtown Kingston, visiting
the sights we have mentioned in the comfort
of a motor vehicle.
The
tour begins at the southern end of National
Hero’s Park.
1.
NATIONAL HEROES’ PARK
This 74-acre park was established on the former
site of the Kingston Race Course and initially
called the George VI Memorial Park, in honour
of the late King of England. After Jamaica gained
its independence from Britain in 1962, the park
was redesigned and its name was changed to National
Heroes Park. It now serves as the resting place
of three of Jamaica’s national heroes:
Marcus Garvey, Sir Alexander Bustamante and
Norman Washington Manley. It also holds several
sculptures commemorating the lives of Jamaica’s
national heroes, and a cemetery, where such
Jamaican luminaries as past Prime Ministers
Michael Manley and Sir Donald Sangster are buried.
The
Jamaica War Memorial or Cenotaph, erected in
tribute to those soldiers who died during World
War I and II, is also located in National Heroes
Park. There is a Cenotaph in each parish capital,
but this is the largest one in the island, weighing
1.5 tons. Members of the island’s Defence
Force maintain a constant vigil at the Cenotaph
and the changing of the guard is an event to
watch! A ceremonial changing of the guard, complete
with music by the Jamaica Military Band, takes
place on the first Sunday of every month at
9:00 a.m. Additionally, every morning ceremonial
guards are on duty for one hour, starting at
8:00 a.m. During this hour they perform a series
of drills, to the delight of the viewing public.
As you leave the park, walk southward along
East Street. At the intersection with North
Street (the former north-eastern boundary of
the city) stand the offices of…
2. THE GLEANER COMPANY
The Daily Gleaner, Jamaica’s premier daily
newspaper since September 1834, is a veritable
steward of the island’s history, chronicling
her daily events for over 160 years. Tours of
the plant may be arranged by calling the Gleaner
Company in advance.
Continue, turning westerly along North Street
until you arrive at the intersection with Duke
Street. Turn south along Duke Street (at the
Moravian church) and stop at the Jewish Synagogue
on the left.
3. THE “JEWISH SYNAGOGUE”
This redundancy in the name is characteristic
of the local penchant for emphasis in speech.
Home to the United Congregation of Israelites,
this magnificent white structure is a true testament
to the contribution of the Jews to Jamaica’s
growth and development. The Jewish community
is one of the oldest, if not the oldest, in
Jamaica. Jews were among the island’s
first colonial settlers, arriving shortly after
Columbus discovered the island in the 15th century.
The first synagogue was built in Port Royal
in approximately 1646, but was destroyed during
the earthquake of 1692. Over time, more Jewish
immigrants came to Jamaica, settling in many
towns islandwide, erecting synagogues and consecrating
cemeteries. Today, however, the Kingston Synagogue
is the only one on the island. The present building
was erected in 1912 to replace an earlier building
dating from 1881.
Fifty metres southward, on the other side of
Duke Street, is the enduring symbol of Jamaica’s
democracy – the George William Gordon
House.
4.
GEORGE WILLIAM GORDON HOUSE
Affectionately called Gordon House, this building
has been the seat of Jamaica’s parliament
since its construction in 1960, when it supplanted
its southward neighbour, the Headquarters House.
The building is named in honour of one of Jamaica’s
National Heroes, George William Gordon, a member
of the house of Assembly in the mid-1800s, who
spoke out against the unfair treatment of blacks
by members of the white society and colonial
government. Gordon was tried and sentenced to
death in the aftermath of the 1865 rebellion.
He was accused of being in collusion with the
leader of that insurrection, Paul Bogle (another
National Hero).
Beside
Gordon House is Headquarters House.
5. HEADQUARTERS HOUSE
Formerly Hibbert House, this wonderfully maintained
building is a fitting home to the Jamaica National
Heritage Trust (JNHT). Hibbert House was one
of several stately Jamaican homes built in the
mid-to-late 18th century, a time of great wealth
for some Kingston residents. Local lore states
that at that time Thomas Hibbert, a wealthy
merchant, took a bet with a group of friends
to see who could construct the most beautiful
home in Kingston and so win the admiration and
affection of a young lady. Thomas Hibbert built
the house using the Georgian architectural style,
popular in England in the 18th century. Although
Hibbert House was then, as it is now, an extremely
attractive building, it is not known who won
the wager.
In
1756, Thomas Hibbert became the Speaker of the
House of Assembly, and so, for a time, the meetings
of House of Assembly and the Legislative Council
were held there. In 1814, the War Office of
the West Indies regiment bought the house, making
it the headquarters and residence of the British
Royal Army General, who was stationed in Kingston.
The house later served as the offices of the
Colonial Secretary and as the permanent seat
of the Jamaica Legislature from 1872 to 1960,
when it was replaced by Gordon House.
After leaving Headquarters House, head south
once more along Duke Street and turn right at
the first intersection onto Sutton Street, which
leads you Parade, Kingston’s bustling
town centre and the heart of the city.
6. PARADE
The name ‘Parade’ is a throwback
to the city’s early days, when the British
‘Redcoats’ displayed their military
might on a weekly basis by ‘parading’
and marching in this area. Currently the city’s
transportation hub, Parade boasts several points
of interest:
7. THE WARD THEATRE
“On this site has stood a public theatre
since 1777.” This inscription on a marble
tablet at the base of this massive building
on the northern side of the square says it all.
The focal point of all things cultural in Jamaica
for well over 200 years, the Ward is home to
our beloved National Pantomime, which opens
on December 26 annually, rain or shine, and
usually runs into March or April of the new
year.
8. THE MANLEY STATUE
At the northern entrance to the park, facing
Upper King Street, the statue of Norman Manley
looks paternally on as Jamaicans go about their
daily affairs. The statue was erected in tribute
to one of the nation’s founding fathers,
Norman Washington Manley, who was also the founder
of the People’s National Party (PNP),
the father of perhaps our most renowned Prime
Minister (Michael Manley) and husband to the
‘Mother of Jamaican Art’ (Edna Manley).
9. COKE METHODIST CHURCH
Standing on the site of the first Methodist
church in Jamaica, this impressive red brick
edifice has presided over the intersection of
East Parade and East Queen Street since the
early 19th century. It is named after Dr Thomas
Coke, founder of the Methodist Missions in the
West Indies.
10. ST WILLIAM GRANT PARK
This oasis in the teeming city is named in honour
of one of Jamaica’s premier labour leaders
of the 1930s. It was once used as a military
parade ground. At the eastern entrance to the
Park is the statue of Her Majesty Queen Victoria.
Strangely, the statue faces inwards, away from
the street associated with Her Majesty (East
Queen Street). It is said that during the great
earthquake of 1907, the statue, which had previously
faced outwards, turned completely around on
its base!!
11. KINGSTON PARISH CHURCH
Rebuilt in 1909, the Kingston Parish Church,
otherwise called the Church of St Thomas the
Apostle, dominates the southern side of the
square. In the churchyard, you’ll find
graves that date back to 1699. Inside, the walls
are lined with plaques and tiles chronicling
the luminaries of Jamaica’s history, including
the story of one John Wolmer, a goldsmith who
bequeathed his wealth to the founding of a “free
school in the parish in which (he) should happen
to die.” Wolmer died in 1729, and the
school bearing his name – the oldest British
institution of secondary education outside the
UK – was established on the lands adjacent
to the church. The Wolmer’s Schools (Boys’
School, Girls’ School and Preparatory
school) today stand at the northern end of National
Heroes’ Circle, proudly maintaining his
legacy almost 275 years later.
12. THE BUSTAMANTE STATUE
At the entrance of the park, the statue of one
of our most colourful political figures, Sir
Alexander Bustamante, faces south. This firebrand
labour leader and founder of the Jamaica Labour
Party rose to become the fledgling nation’s
first Prime Minister in 1962. The statue depicts
Sir Alexander in a typically militant mood,
baring his chest and daring police to “shoot
me!” at a tense labour rally in the city
in the 1930s.
After you have explored Parade’s captivating
sights, return to the Parish Church. Turn south
at the corner of the Parish Church, onto King
Street.
13. KING STREET
As its name suggests, this street is Kingston’s
main thoroughfare and is the busiest street
in the city’s central business district.
Walking along King Street provides you with
a generous helping of Jamaica’s eclectic
urban life.
Walk past the shops, vendors’ stalls,
fast food restaurants and banks. Between Tower
and Barry streets, you will see a two-storey
building, fronted by a small park. This is Jamaica’s
Supreme Court.
14. THE SUPREME COURT
The focal point of the island’s judicial
system, the Supreme Court is a symbol of Jamaica’s
quest for justice, freedom and equality for
all its citizens. The mural on the outside wall
is a true example of the freedom of expression
afforded to all Jamaicans under our constitution.
Turn left by the Supreme Court onto Tower Street.
Cross over five (5) intersections until you
return to East Street. The elegant red brick
building facing you is the Institute of Jamaica.
15. THE INSTITUTE OF JAMAICA/NATIONAL
LIBRARY OF JAMAICA
Established in 1879, the Institute boasts Jamaica’s
oldest museum. Its exhibitions offer unparalleled
insights into our colourful past, culture, and
flora and fauna. The Institute’s Natural
History Museum has an interactive, kid-friendly
display of Jamaica’s rare plants and animals.
In between the Discovery room and the gallery,
look out for the Shark’s Papers, framed
and hanging on the wall. These documents are
part of an interesting tale. In 1799, the British
Navy seized a ship on the grounds of illegal
trading. The ship’s captain claimed he
was innocent, but during the trial a British
merchant ship arrived at Port Royal with documents
that proved the captain’s guilt. The British
crew had recovered the papers from inside a
shark that they had caught while at sea. Apparently,
the captain had thrown the incriminating papers
overboard when he was being captured.
As
well as the National History Museum, the Institute
houses a herbarium, which is the largest in
the English speaking Caribbean, and thought
to be one of the finest in the world. Below
the herbarium, you’ll fine the Zoology
department, boasting an extensive catalogue
of spiders and insects. The Institute also has
a Science Library with over 10,000 scientific
publications, including a collection of 18th
century science journals.
Adjoining
the Institute is The National Library of Jamaica,
which houses one of the most important collections
of books, documents, and prints in the West
Indies. In the microfilm section, you may peruse
Jamaican newspapers and other documents from
the 18th century.
After you have spent some time at the Institute,
continue southward along East Street, crossing
Water Lane, Harbour Street and Port Royal Street.
Take note of the Air Jamaica and Scotia Bank
buildings on your right. At the intersection
of East Street and Nethersole Place, make a
right to the:
16. BANK OF JAMAICA
Downtown’s tallest building, the Central
Bank houses the National Coin and Currency Museum,
which has an interesting exhibit of Jamaican
tokens, coins and paper money, collected over
the passage of time. The Museum also displays
a gold artefact, belonging to the Taino Indians
(Jamaica’s first inhabitants), and the
remnants of a 17th century well, recovered from
beneath the surface of Kingston Harbour in Port
Royal’s sunken city. In 1692, a massive
earthquake sent two thirds of Port Royal into
the Caribbean Sea. Over the years, marine archaeologists
have discovered thousands of valuable artefacts
and ancient structures, submerged in the harbour.
Beside the Bank of Jamaica building, the Jamaican
Coat of Arms adorns the Jamaica Conference Centre,
a fully modern facility serving as the headquarters
of the International Seabed Authority. Passing
the Conference Centre, continue south to Ocean
Boulevard, a scenic roadway fronting Kingston
Harbour, the seventh largest natural harbour
in the world. Make a right on Ocean Boulevard
and walk in a westerly direction. At the seaward
end of the intersection with King Street, you
will see an interesting statue, called “Negro
Aroused.”
17. ‘NEGRO AROUSED’ STATUE
An enlargement of the wooden original that sits
proudly inside the National Gallery, this bronze
sculpture by Edna Manley is a monument to the
workers involved in the 1938 labour riots.
Continue walking west along Ocean Boulevard
and turn after King Street onto Orange Street.
There you will find the foremost repository
of Jamaican Art – the National Gallery
of Jamaica, and the African Caribbean Institute
of Jamaica.
18. NATIONAL GALLERY OF JAMAICA
The gallery’s breathtaking collection
takes you on a magical journey through the development
of Jamaican art, from its birth in the 1920s
to the present. The works of Carl Abrahams,
Cecil Baugh, John Dunkley, Edna Manley, Mallica
‘Kapo’ Reynolds, Barrington Watson
and other giants of Jamaican art are carefully
displayed here. Spend some time exploring the
gallery’s fascinating rooms.
The entrance to the ACIJ lies on the north side
of the National Gallery building.
19. THE AFRICAN CARIBBEAN INSTITUTE
OF JAMAICA
Founded in 1972, the African Caribbean Institute
is a part of the Institute of Jamaica. The ACIJ
started with the goal to “deepen the awareness
of the contribution of African cultural retention”.
In addition to a research centre, the ACIJ also
has a museum of Jamaica’s African heritage,
and offers artefacts and audiovisual displays
for your perusal.
Links
& Sources:
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